Designation:
A jewellery designer
I
am
: 27 years old
My
job:
Based on the floral form of the Kushan (first century AD) era, I
design disc-like earrings, set with rubies and diamonds, and then coat them with
rhodium to get a platinum effect. I prefer using diamonds and gemstones in gold
jewellery, rather than focus on the heavy and stark gold look.
From
the lab to the designing board:
I graduated in biochemistry from St
Xavier's, Ahmedabad, and then went on to New York University to study genetic
engineering. Soon enough, I realised that I was not cut out for lab research. I
was always interested in jewellery design and one day, on an impulse, I strolled
into the Fashion Institute of Technology, (FIT), New York, which was offering
courses for it.
How
education helped me:
It honed my designing skills. At FIT, we had both
jewellery drawing and designing classes. We had gemology, geology and math
classes (which I sailed through because I had been a science student); we also
studied global cultural sensibilities and art history. Most important, such
training helped me to adopt a scientific approach, for example, when I made wax
models of my designs, I took into mind the orthographic joints, the same way an
architect would view every line on his blueprint!
My
inspiration:
It was very inspiring for me as a student at FIT to walk
down the Diamond District in New York, the global hub of diamond design and
trade. It is almost entirely run by Jews and Indians! My stint at the Brooklyn
Museum of Art in New York introduced me to aspects of Indian art other than
jewellery.
I
knew I had arrived when:
I gave lectures at a show displaying Mughal
jewellery (part of the collection of the Sheikh of Kuwait) in the Metropolitan
Museum of Art, New York. It was a great interactive experience.
Pooja
Shah spoke to Swati Sucharita
So
You Want To Be A Designer?
•
Take a formal course in jewellery design. Besides FIT, explore other
institutions like NIFT, NID (National Institute of Design) and NIJD (National
Institute of Jewellery Design), both at Ahmedabad, and Sardar Patel Centre Of
Jewellery Design and Manufacture, Surat. Besides, there are jewellery product
development centres in Mumbai, Delhi and Jaipur.
•
Focus on any single aspect of design. For eg, I find enamelling fascinating, so
I researched jewellery traditions in Jaipur, Benares and Hyderabad I use it most
liberally in my designs.
•
Before plunging into your own business, work for a couple of years with a
reputed jewellery brand, like Tanishq, Asmi, Tribhuvandas Zaveri, etc.
•
Know your market and get your pricing right - that way you will strengthen brand
loyalty.
•
Have a small workshop-cum-office which creates the ambience for interacting
with your works men and clients.