Experience the timeless romance of the ancient oasis of Palmyra - a stopover for caravans on the silk route and the most enthralling place in Syria, says Sadhna Shanker

As the suburbs of Damascus recede, the desert landscape emerges. An expanse of undulating sand and stone. At the end of March, the winter rains are over and a shimmer of green seems to be layered on the desert. Little yellow flowers form a carpet on both sides of the smooth, single-lane road.
In the distance, one can see specks of black and light brown - the Bedouin nomads with their flock of sheep, a donkey, a dog! They form an interesting group that at intervals, seems to keep a vigil on the vehicles passing by. We played Hindi film music en route in the bus. "You have songs of Shammi Kapoor - 'Suku Suku'?" our middle-aged Syrian driver asks. The bonds of Bollywood - they bind Indians to diverse nations through different strings!
Palmyra, The Oasis
Suddenly, it emerges in the distance. A lush green frill at the edge of the desert horizon. Closer, visible above the trees, is the top edge of pink sandstone glowing in the sun.
A Bit Of History
A thriving trade post on the silk route, Palmyra reached its zenith between 1BC and 3 AD. After that, it fell to Roman wrath because the legendary queen Zenobia dared to declare her independence from Rome. Thereafter, various leaders ruled - the last being Islamic ones. The ruins of Palmyra speak eloquently of the myriad rulers that have shaped her destiny. The signboard outside the sleepy town says 'Welcome to Palmyra - Bride of the desert'.
What To See
Palmyra Museum: Entry: US $3 per person. At the main square is this small and interesting museum. Definitely worth a visit.
The Ruins: The real treasures of Palmyra are strewn out in the open - subject to the vagaries of centuries. The monumental arch at the entrance of the ancient site is the symbol of Palmyra. Behind it stretches the great colonnade and the city. Sit on a broken column, alone, and observe the ruins. In the mind's eye, the city comes alive - the market, the baths, the senate, the 'agora' or main square. There is a beautiful amphitheatre in the Roman tradition that can seat 5,000 people. It has been restored and annual cultural festivals are now held there.
The ruins stir something deep within - a sense of awe and the realisation that we belong to a continuum that stretches endlessly at both ends.

Temple of Bel: Entry: US3 $ per person. The massive temple of Bel enshrines a history of worship. Initially, Bel -'the master of the heavens' (much like our 'Indra') was worshipped there. When the city of Palmyra was re-discovered in the 1930s, the entire village was living in the temple of Bel! The layout of the temple corresponds to that of the Semitic sanctuaries. The main building has two altars facing each other. The ceiling of one of the altars is like an inverted lotus. Outside the temple walls parade decorated camels and horses, on whose backs tourists can take a ride.

Other Must-Sees: Don't miss the Necropolis. The towering tombs rise like watch posts in the hills around. Go up the nearby hillock to the citadel of Fakhr-ad-din. An Arab castle of the 17th century, it is a good place to see the sun rise or set on the ruins below. At night, it is illuminated and glows like a jewel in the darkness. Wind up the day in the market place of Palmyra. Young boys run with dates for you to taste. Bargaining is the name of the game when you buy these. A kilo can be bought for US$ 2.
Where To Eat
Lunch: Bedouin Centre, just outside town, is the perfect place to grab a bite. Eat inside a Bedouin tent on low sofas, draped in Bedouin tapestry that is bright and colourful, much like weaves from North East India. The food is an array of Arab sauces, salads and vegetables. Simmering at the edge of the table in a huge cauldron will be rice topped with a whole lamb. (US $10 per person)

Dinner: At the market place. The restaurants lining the streets advertise several cuisines and the tourist savvy owners speak English and French fluently. A decent meal for two is available for $ 10.

The endless desert was pitch dark on the way back, but the sky sparkled with countless stars - a clear pointer to the lack of pollution. ' Al Hind?' 'Hindiya', 'Hindi?' - the voices of the vendors at Palmyra reverberated in my ears. A nod elicited the warm response - "Welcome to Palmyra, welcome to Syria". As the bus cuts through the night, I wonder, 'Is the warmth and affection for India inherited from the centuries of links that our people have had?' The trade of spices, language and culture that took place for thousands of years ensures a warm welcome for someone from Al-Hind even today!


Fact File
Currency: Syrian pound. US $1 = approx 50 Syp (called Lira locally)
How To Get There: Damascus - Palmyra: 250 km. There are direct flights between Delhi-Damascus.
One-day Package Tour: approx US $15 Staying Options: Hotels at Palmyra available from US $ 25 upwards
Best Time: Feb-March and Oct-Dec
Others: Syria is a secular country. The Syrian embassy in India is at New Delhi.