Naina Balsavar Ahmed tells us why her jewellery is like that special ‘chai’.

Model, beautician, Femina Miss India, politician, actress, jewellery designer — Naina Balsavar Ahmed has always embraced changes in life. And she has been no stranger to enterprise, right from the time when she won the Femina Miss India Contest and pocketed a neat Rs 3,000 — “A huge amount in those days which my grandfather invested for me later.”

Now, with a growing jewellery business, Naina seems to have found her calling, though she won’t admit it, because she “never plans and always works on impulse!” But rooted deep within is a love for jewels, inherited from her mother.

“I have always loved colourful stones and collected them. In fact, I’ve been designing on a small scale for sometime now.”

Journey With Jewels
Naina’s love for designing jewellery took a professional turn when she sold some property and invested the money in starting a jewellery business. With jewellery designers coming up in every corner, she made sure her focus was on designing pieces that inspired her. “I have always liked Mughal jewellery,” she says. Though her pieces are mostly inspired by this era, they do have a hint of Western influence. “But I don’t like doing very contemporary pieces,” she declares.

A lover of Italian jewellery, Naina’s designs, like the trend internationally, are big on stones with bold designs that are meant to be the centre of attraction. However, she says, she has never really cared about sticking with the latest trends. “I create jewellery that I can wear,” is her reply and indeed she does carry off her glittering baubles with élan. She loves designing, is confident and points out, “I’ve always trusted my gut feeling.”

Despite entering a segment crowded with budding designers and overshadowed by big family jewellers, Naina has never felt the need to do any research on what would really sell. The inspiration for her designs comes from nature. “All my animal and nature pieces sell!”

Designing also means getting attached to some special pieces and keeping them for herself, as she did earlier! “I have learnt to let go of most of my designs. Initially, I would fall in love with most pieces and keep them. Now I only do that when something is particularly beautiful,” she says.

Sparkle And Splendour
Naina works solo (“get me a team!”) and every design is her creation. She has nothing but words of praise for the workmen who execute the intricacies of her designs. “I’ve been to Dariba Kalan in Old Delhi and seen how tough it is for them to do their job. In spite of the conditions, the work that these people do is very accomplished.” Naina also gets some of her work done from Jaipur and Bikaner. She rues the fact that art forms like enamelling and ‘polki’ are slowly dying out. “The only way to revive them is to give these ‘karigars’ work and keep buying the pieces.”

For someone who absolutely adores jewellery and believes it is for posterity, Naina loves reviving old pieces if they are economically viable. When it comes to her business, there are certain basic rules that she adheres to: “I work on small margins, create one of a kind pieces and never replicate unless someone specifically asks me to.” Currently, she retails her jewellery from the store N&M in the upmarket Sainik Farms, Delhi, which she runs with Mandira Virk, a fashion designer. “The jewellery and clothes complement each other,” she feels. Her jewellery is also retailed through Kimaya, Mumbai.

The business has done well from February 5, 2002, when she opened N&M and Naina claims that she has “never had major losses”. As of now she is not in a hurry to make profits, because “appreciation is more important”.

Having held exhibitions on regular basis, Naina is upbeat about her jewellery making its presence felt in Mumbai, the city she used to live in once upon a time. She is also smart enough to know that if the film fraternity buys her pieces, her label is likely to get great publicity. “When they wear something, everyone takes notice. It becomes more popular,” she says.

With her jewellery business off to a great start, Naina has ventured further and recently launched a lifestyle store, 4sure, in Delhi’s swank shopping complex 1, M G Road. It houses all things luxurious like oleographs, lithographs, old silver furniture, glassworks, etc. “I was debating initially whether I should be doing this and finally took the plunge,” she says, adding, “I am sure there’s a market for this stuff.”

When it comes to her business, Naina has no future plans to expand right now. “I am not in competition with family jewellers because it’s like comparing a kiosk and Taj Hotel,” she laughs, and adds after a pause, “but sometimes the kiosk can offer you a special ‘chai’ that even Taj Hotel can’t. That’s the personal touch I can give to my jewellery and clients, and that is what matters!”

Impulsive or not, this jewellery designer is here to stay. Or at least her jewellery is.

Golden rules for success
Don’t start unless you have enough finance. “I didn’t start with much. Since I wasn’t going to run the house with the money earned from this business, whatever I made, I kept ploughing back into it. I never took any money away.”
Don’t create jewellery beyond a certain price limit, unless yours is a family enterprise. “I price mine between Rs 600 and a couple of lakhs. Never beyond, unless someone specially orders a very expensive piece.”
Have confidence in your work.
A good eye for designing is a must.
Never ever sell jewellery on credit.
Copying is a nuisance you have to cope with. “You can’t stop anyone from copying your work. Think of it as the biggest form of flattery.”

Photographs: Anuj Parti