If you have wondered how different can men's kurtas and sherwanis get, just take a look at Kanta Khemani's repertoire, writes Namita A Shrivastava

Kanta Khemani entered the scene of men's fashion when the industry was still in its infancy. There were just a few brands for men and their clothing was limited to blazers, double breasted coats and predictable sherwanis. That was also the age of strong colour coding. Men wore blacks, blues, browns, and blue again.

In the midst of this drab scenario, Kanta decided to pep up the scene with her designs for men. Today, she retails from some of the most popular and upmarket boutiques in the country, including Elahe in Hyderabad and Roopam in Mumbai.

In the twin cities of Hyderabad and Secunderabad, Kanta's label defines traditional Indian male dressing and is considered the final word in long kurtas and sherwanis.

Embroidering For Pleasure
Growing up in Assam taught Kanta a lot about fabric and regional weaving. She loved embroidery and grew up mastering several intricate stitches. She often gave the designer’s touch to the shirts her brothers wore. When she got married and came to Hyderabad, she took up designing to the next level.

Her first exhibition of kurtas for men, with subtle embroidery and stylised cuts, was a sell-out. ‘’We started at 10 am and till three we had no time to look up. I realised I was under-stocked. She also realised that here was a market ready to mature.

From two ‘karigars’ she stepped up to 60 and increased her repertoire too. Kanta's line is embellished with beads, zardosi, ‘pitta hua kaam’, ‘dori’, ‘kasab’, pin-tucks and the Kashmiri stitch. Often it's the button or the placement of embroidery that makes the difference.

Kanta's signature line is classy and subtle. In the city of Nizams it’s mandatory for the grooms-to-be to pay a visit to Kanta. She also co-ordinates ‘jooties’, ‘dupattas’ and head gears. Though Kanta finds that her lack of a professional degree is a stumbling block, what she has learnt through experience is far more valuable. In this business, everything depends on the ‘karigar’. ‘’Their problem is your problem.’’

Slow And Steady
Though Kanta knows she can do much more, she’s in no great hurry. What she loves most about her job is the challenge. ‘’While it should make women's heads turn, it should not appear feminine.’’

Her range starts from Rs 1,200 and goes right up to Rs 40,000. Her creations have clothed the best in Tollywood.

What makes Kanta unique is her charming simplicity and her approach to work. Though she belongs to a conservative community, she realises that talent and education hold the key to success.