Are you well suited? JJ Valaya tackles that tricky question.
A few elegant suits make all the difference to a man’s wardrobe. Getting every suit tailor- made would be the ultimate solution. However, with a fair number of men’s stores as well as designers stocking suits, one now has the option of purchasing suits off-the-rack.
Always remember that, the quality of fabric dictates the price of a suit. A suit made of ‘60-80 twists’ fabrics will obviously be cheaper than one made of 100 or super 110s for example.
A ‘high-twist’ (100 or super 110) means a suit is made of a worsted wool yarn that has been twisted more often than the usual 60 to 80 twist fabrics. Super 120 wool is one of the most expensive materials commonly used. Today, suits are made in various fabrics, both natural such as wool, linen, etc, as well as others such as polyester blends, microfibres, spandex and tencel.
Go In For Shape While fabric does attract the eye first, one of the most important things to consider in a suit is its silhouette. Most suits are made to last several years, so a suit which is extreme in silhouette is more likely to go out of style before it lives out its life. The right choice would thus either give you years of dependence or would haunt your closet forever. So, while it is important to follow trends, it is equally important to consider classic styling.
This season suits are characterised by standard, rich colours, sharp fits, and no-nonsense styles: It’s the year of the basic suit, with a twist. Also, if you’ve been waiting for the return of the pinstripe suit, this is your year. Q and A
How does one wear ‘vents’ or ‘slits’ in a man’s jacket? Vents are the flaps of cloth below the waist, at the back. They should cover your entire rear end. A larger individual should choose a jacket with two slits, while a thinner man should opt for one with no slits.
What is the general rule of thumb to be followed when it comes to ‘cuffs’ or turn-ups in pants? Cuffed pants look better on taller men. If you’re somewhat shorter, avoid them altogether. Cuffs will also help your pants hang properly.
How many buttons are acceptable on a jacket? Choose a two, three or four-button jacket; the style currently is a three-button jacket and it always looks better to leave one undone.
I am extremely fond of linen suits. Would you advise owning one? Linen is a luxurious fabric and is generally used for summer suits as it is stylish and lightweight. The flip side is that it wrinkles very easily, stains easily, and is thus, not practical for travelling. Despite these disadvantages, I would strongly recommend owning one.
Single or double-breasted — what should I go in for? You can choose between a single or double-breasted jacket. Double-breasted jackets are a tad more formal and are generally worn by older gentlemen. However, today, a double-breasted jacket can look extremely elegant if well cut.
I have just bought a five-button, single-breasted suit and I’m wondering whether it was a wise purchase. Do five or six-button suits look bold, or are they really made for taller people? It is absolutely alright to wear an extravagant suit every now and again. Five or six-button, single-breasted suits however, are a different story.
Any man under 190 cm should avoid wearing them altogether. However, if you’re really seeking something unique, then I’d support a sharply tailored, four-button suit. You can show off your suit on regular workdays, at special events or even at chic evening cocktail parties. Just remember that four-button suit shouldn’t be worn during important meetings or interviews.
What are the options I have in a bundgala suit? The bundgala jacket is a wonderful way to make a statement. Combined effectively with a cravat and a pocket square, it goes a long way in creating an impression. Team it with a dress shirt and some cufflinks and you have a winner!
What is the right amount of shirt collar and cuff that should show in a suit? Simply follow a basic principle of 1.25 cm, that is, 1.25 cm of shirt collar to show above the jacket collar and 1.25 cm of shirt cuff to show from under the jacket sleeve. Photographs Courtesy JJ Valaya