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The taste that tickles

It's pickle-making time. Aruna Chandaraju has recipes from the North and the South. And short cuts, too!


Classic Avakaya
This is a typical mango pickle from Andhra Pradesh eaten as an accompaniment with steamed rice, mixed with ghee or freshly churned butter, curd rice, idlis, dosas, and upma!

25 green, raw, sour mangoes
400 g fenugreek (methi) seeds
1 kg salt
1 kg red chilli powder
1-1 1/4 kg sesame-seed oil (also called gingelly or til) (second preference: groundnut oil)
1 kg mustard powder
20 - 30 cloves garlic, peeled (optional)


Wash the mangoes thoroughly under running water, dry with a cotton cloth and set aside for a few hours till completely dry.
Cut the mangoes into small pieces (about four pieces each), and discard the seeds. While cutting, ensure that each piece has a part of the hard shell.
Place the mango pieces in a large, shallow bottomed bowl, and add the fenugreek seeds, salt, chilli and mustard powders, and most of the oil (saving about three or four tsps). Add the garlic, if using, and mix thoroughly. Transfer the contents into a dry, airtight jar. Pour the remaining oil on top and close the jar.
Set aside for three days.
Everyday, for three days, sun-dry the jar for a couple of hours. After each session, stir and mix the contents thoroughly so that the oil and spices are evenly distributed and do not settle at the bottom. Set aside.
The pickle is ready to be eaten in a week's time. If you prefer the pickle to temper down, wait for a fortnight or even a month. Mix the jar contents well each time before serving.



Pesara Avakaya
Another variety of mango pickle from Andhra Pradesh.

8 green, sour mangoes
1/4 kg yellow moong (or green gram)
1/4 kg red chilli powder
1/4 kg salt
1/2 kg til oil
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp mustard seeds
a pinch asafoetida
a pinch turmeric powder
Wash, pat dry the mangoes and cut them into chunky pieces. Discard the seeds. Set aside. Dry roast the moong dal and grind it to a smooth powder.
Mix the moong dal powder with the mango pieces, and add the salt, chilli and turmeric powders, and half the oil. Mix thoroughly.
Heat a tbsp from the remaining oil and add the mustard and fenugreek seeds. Once they splutter, add the asafoetida. Roast well, remove from heat and add to the mango-moong -spice mixture. Mix thoroughly. Transfer to a jar and set aside. Add the remaining oil after three days and mix thoroughly again.
The Cheat's Way:

Mix the mango pieces, with the moong-dal powder, salt, chilli and turmeric powders. Also, mix in the fenugreek seeds, oil, all in one go. You may omit the seasoning.
You can serve within half a day.




Nuvvulu Avakaya

This simple-to-make sesame mango pickle doesn't use any chilli powders and doesn't need a cheat's way to do it!

25 small green, raw, sour mangoes
1 kg groundnut oil
1 kg salt
1 kg sesame seeds, roasted and ground
1 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp fenugreek powder
1/2 tsp cumin powder
1/4 kg mustard seeds (powdered without roasting)

For the seasoning:
1/4 kg sesame oil
1 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
a pinch of asafoetida

Wash, clean and wipe dry the mangoes with clean cotton cloth. When thoroughly dry, cut into small pieces. Set aide.
To prepare the seasoning:
Heat the sesame oil in a kadai and add the mustard seeds. When they splutter, add the cumin seeds and asafoetida powder.
Allow to cool.
Place the mangoes in a dry, shallow bottomed bowl and add the salt, sesame-seed, turmeric, fenugreek, cumin and mustard-seed powders.
Check the seasoning and pour the groundnut oil slowly over the mangoes, stirring continuously. Transfer the contents to an airtight jar and allow to marinate for three-four days. On each day, it is advisable to sun-dry the jar for an hour or two.

Who said only mangoes can be pickled? Here are some simple, quick-to-make nouveau vegetable pickles. Take your pick!



Cabbage Pickle

1 large cup chopped cabbage
4 tbsp oil (sesame or groundnut)
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp mustard powder
1/4 fenugreek powder
a pinch asafoetida
a pinch turmeric powder

Mix the cabbage with all the other ingredients in a dry shallow bowl and transfer the contents to a dry jar. It's ready to eat after 24 hours. Mix well once more before serving.
Keeps for a month.

Raw Papaya Pickle

1 large cup finely chopped, skinned raw papaya
4 tbsp edible oil
1 tbsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp mustard powder
1/4 tsp fenugreek powder
a pinch asafoetida
a pinch turmeric powder
2 tbsp lemon juice

In a shallow dry bowl, mix the papaya pieces with the rest of the ingredients. Transfer the contents to a dry jar. It's ready to eat after 24 hours. Mix well once before serving. Keeps for a week.




Sour Cucumber Pickle

1 large cup chopped cucumber, unpeeled
4 tbsp oil (sesame or groundnut)
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp mustard powder
1/4 tsp fenugreek powder
a pinch asafoetida, lightly roasted in a little oil, if preferred
a pinch turmeric powder

In a shallow dry bowl, mix the cucumber pieces with the rest of the ingredients. Transfer contents to a dry jar. It's ready to eat after 24 hours. Mix well once before serving. Keeps for a month.

Carrot Pickle

1 kg carrot washed, peeled, dried and chopped into 2.5 cm long pieces
1 cup edible oil (sesame or groundnut)
1 tsp chilli powder
1/2 tsp mustard powder
1/4 tsp fenugreek powder
1/4 tsp cumin powder
1 tsp coriander powder
salt to taste
a small lump jaggery
2 tsp lemon juice





For the seasoning:
2 tbsp oil
1/4 tsp mustard seeds
1 red chilli, broken into small pieces
1/4 tsp cumin seeds
1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
a pinch of asafoetida
a pinch of turmeric powder
a fistful curry leaves


To prepare the seasoning:
Heat two tbsp of the oil in a large wok and add the mustard seeds. When they splutter, add the red chillies. Then, add the cumin and fenugreek seeds, asafoetida and turmeric powder and roast well. Finally, add the curry leaves.
Remove from heat and add the carrot pieces, while still hot. Mix in all the powders and salt.
When the mixture is cool, add the lemon juice and jaggery. Mix thoroughly once more and transfer the contents to an airtight container.
It's ready to serve within a few hours, though you can leave it to marinate for a day or two before eating. Keeps for a couple of months.




Gherkin Pickle

1 large cup chopped gherkins (long, green ones, each sliced lengthwise into four equal pieces - the gherkins should be completely green inside, discard any red or even reddish ones.

4 tbsp oil (sesame or groundnut)
1 tsp chilli powder
1 tsp salt
1/4 tsp mustard powder
1/4 tsp fenugreek powder
a pinch of asafoetida, lightly roasted in a little oil if preferred
a pinch of turmeric powder

In a shallow dry bowl, mix the gherkin pieces with the rest of the ingredients. Transfer contents to a dry jar. It's ready to eat after 24 hours. Mix well before serving.
Keeps for a week.

For Aruna Chandaraju, cooking is a passion. She imbibed her culinary skills from her mother, and has modified and adapted several recipes to her very own innovative style. She writes regularly for leading publications in the country on a variety of subjects, including food.
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