I HAVE walked up the wooden staircase that leads to the Cartier workshop in Paris, before. Even then, I was amazed at the fact that this unpresumptuous building is the birthplace of almost all the wonderful work that makes Cartier a brand even king and empresses have been proud to possess through centuries.

THIS time, I am led into the hallowed spaces, where the artisans create their works of art. Jewellery, much of it priceless; watches, many of them made to order - the creative work goes on non stop, day after day. Naturally so, considering many of the creations require thousands of man-hours of hands-on work. Of course the way a jewel is made follows a few well tested steps.

THE stones are put together in a design, drawings are made, approved, and finalised. And then the actual work begins on the crafting of the piece.

I WATCH with awe, the craftsman in front of his well-stocked table, filing patiently away at the edge of a curve of platinum. The bracelet has been cast in wax, and is now being translated into metal.

The table he works at has everything he needs close at hand. And just below the work area, a cradle of leather ensures that shards and shavings are caught to be collected carefully for reuse after melting.

He picks away at the metal, cleaning the wax out, making it ready to receive the stone that will glitter in all its finery from the setting he will create for it. Hundreds of stones will complete the piece, the panther on the bracelet will house diamonds in plenty, each a perfect stone, and turquoise eyes, and then there is the rest of the watch to be done, and the curve of the bracelet to be finished. And for one precious moment, as he hands the still raw bracelet for me to hold, I am awed by the vision of a masterpiece in close-up. And then realise the sheer weight of it. Of course, such a rare piece is a made-to-order ornament, and therefore, cannot be photographed. But I know my mind has captured the image, and it will not let go of it for many moons.

ALONGSIDE the table where the panther watch-bracelet is being crafted, and behind it, are other craftspeople, all totally immersed in the tasks they have taken up. A ring is being prepared to receive a large stone in one, in another, prongs are being shaped with utmost care.

A FLOOR above, the stones glitter in the lights that shine in the room.

Onyx, diamonds, emeralds and sapphires wink at me, as I watch a stone being lowered into its setting. Before it can be set, it has been shaped and honed, so it can fit neatly in. As I turn to look around, my guide holds up a tiny box, which he tells me with utmost calm, holds a hundred carats of diamonds. A peep inside reveals what seems to be diamond dust... perhaps the world's costliest dust, I muse to myself.

AS I leave the workshop, I learn that the craftspeople I have met are probably among the world's best. Out of every batch of students that joins the jewellery making courses, about 10 make the grade, and about two are chosen to work on fine jewellery. And that involves a commitment to a relentless pursuit of high quality, painstaking, hard, intricate work, and a thirst for perfection.

ALL of which, I see reflected, when a day later, at the Biennalle des Antiquaires exhibition, at the Cartier stall, I gaze almost open- mouthed at jewellery even money cannot buy... the wonderful necklace with the priceless twin Golconda diamonds, a collar of perfectly matched, perfectly set sapphires, and enough exquisite jewellery to fire my dreams for the rest of my life.