Ask Jean Paul Gaultier and he will give you the knowing smile. Look at his creations decorating the exhibition hall of the Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporarie in Paris and you will understand the reason for his enigmatic smile.

The exhibits are quintessential Gaultier - the tight bodices, the Kelly bag, the wonderful Cinderella shoes, and even the corsated torsos that so mimic his perfume bottle... but here, there is no rustle of silk, no whisper of taffeta. Instead the brown, rugged, sometimes powdered surface of bread makes up the fabric of the master's line on display.

When the Cartier Foundation invited the designer to be its guest of honour, the designer agreed. And promptly fell into a quandary about what he should exhibit.

A regular retrospective was... hell... all musty mausoleums, and graveyards before their time. A simple display of garments... no, that wouldn't work, not without models to breathe life into the forms. Maybe something took him back to his age-old desire to be a baker of fine bread, maybe a passerby carrying a freshly baked, fragrant baguette fired the idea in his brain, but before you could say brown bread, the master bakers from across France had been pressed into service, and were working on the prototypes, converting Gaultier's sketches and designs into edible (well, almost) delectables.

To give the exhibition greater impact, Gaultier created an entire series of original designs, from a dainty ladyfinger dress to a strapless bustier of baguettes, a wide brimmed hat of fougasses to a bread slipper and even a dainty umbrella.

And then, everything from floor to ceiling, from the bakery downstairs sending up its aromatic vapours, to the airy ceiling above was adorned suitably with bread, of course. And no one missed the baguettes that lined the huge glass windows, Venetian blind style, either.

Just in case you wanted a memoir, a visitor could buy some of the very same bread, freshly baked, from the bakeshop on the same floor as the exhibits. But the little disappointment was... it smelt, tasted and looked not like a Gaultier creation, but like, well plain bread.

PAIN COUTURE was on exhibition at Foundation Cartier pour l'art contemporarie, Paris, from June till Oct 10, 2004.Sathya Saran

Detail Sells

Check out the little ruffle peeping out from behind the collar on the busy brocade 'kurta' and the shaped hemline diving to kiss the floor on the fuchsia 'kurta'.

Both these structured designs from Linarika by Lina Tipnis can be worn over cigarette pants,

a well-cut 'churidar' or even a skirt. This season, it's all about attention to detail even on separates, folks!

Available at multi-designer stores in select cities.

India Calling

Designing doesn't stop at aping the West; it moves ahead and calls for innovation with a cultural twist. And Ritu Kumar manages to do exquisite culture-oriented wear with panache. This and much more made 'Outlook' magazine choose her as India's No 1 designer, with the help of Vinod Kaul, former head of FDCI (Fashion Design Council Of India), Asha Baxi of NIFT (National Institute Of Fashion Technology), Shyamolie Verma, ex-model, and Somesh Singh of NID (National Institute Of Design) as the jury. She also led the women's wear, business management and Indian wear brigade. One thing is for sure, be it traditional or fusion, Ritu makes sure we gasp always.

'Amchi' Mumbai Abroad

Metal peacocks or framed paintings stare at you as you walk into this store called Mumbai Se in the Lion City, Singapore. Owned by the Royal Sporting House (also a distributor of Mango, Zara and Bebe), the company is run by Sajni Gill who has roped in names like Monisha Jaisingh, Rina Dhaka, Geisha, Manish Arora, Satya Paul, Manna Shetty and the like. So, if you ever think of going to Singapore, this store could be a must-visit. Not that you wouldn't get the labels in India but just to check what the 'firangs' really love about our country. Also, you might find furnishings or artefacts that you've missed while shopping in India.

Mumbai Se, 390, Orchard Road, 02-03, Palais Renaissance, Singapore

No Fruits Here!

But how about some luscious numbers? Orange Plum, a little store tucked in one of the shopping hubs of South Mumbai, offers shirts designed for their in-house brand, 'California Club', ornate saris from 'Shivano' by Shivani, and some yummy Western styles.

Available at Orange Plum, Maskati Corner, G-2, Ground Floor,

Altamount Road, Mumbai-36.

Lighten Your Pockets

▪ 'Tagless' innerwear - between Rs 60 and Rs 250. Do you cut or rip off the tag from your inner wear? Hannes, the innerwear label for men from Sara Lee (designed in association with NIFT), has instructions printed directly on the fabric! So, no worries! You can wear or use them as you please, sans the scratching discomfort.

▪ A few power-packed pieces. 'Signature' by Natalie has styles for corporate yuppies. The brand has both formals and relaxed wear. "A travel from the boardroom to the lounge bar," says Veena Jaganath, Brand Manager, Natalie.

▪ Denims and knits priced between Rs 999 and Rs 1,499 for both men and women. Collect parts of India or pieces from the past via Numero Uno's winter collection. The other pieces like T-shirts (Rs 399 to Rs 999), tracks and sweaters are priced reasonably too.

▪ Shaped glasses. Go square! Rim your eyes with coloured plastics from Vintage Sunglasses, priced between Rs 450 and Rs 750. You can even try the wraparounds for a little more than Rs 1,000. After all, your kohl-rimmed stunners are worth it!

▪ Pants that don't weigh you down. Stori, menswear brand, claims to have super light trousers in satin weave. The No Gravity satin pants are available at Center Stage Mall, Noida.

▪ Some stretch pants, dungarees or pretty dresses for moms-to-be. Mama & Bebe has them for you. Available at multi-brand outlets in cities.

Fable-Like

Cushy cushions, silk-covered 'divans', flavoured 'hookahs' and beauties in stunning creations ruled the ramp at the show by Pallavi Jaikishan. What caught every soul's attention was the use of Moroccan embroidery from Rabat - the capital of Morocco - on 'kurtas', saris, 'lehengas' and more. Bridal wear is incomplete without brocades and silk, and Pallavi specialises in wedding wear. And those who want a subtle touch of Pallavi glimmer, sans the bridal glamour, can go for the prêt line of 'kurtas' and 'salwar-kameez'.

Available at Paraphernalia in Mumbai and in Delhi