ONCE upon a time beauty was only about talcum powder and cold cream. Not so anymore. Today, the number of jars and bottles of potions, and serums vying for shelf space is overwhelming.

And yet, some of us haven't found that dream cream that will erase those laugh lines and firm those jiggly jowls. And that's where nutraceuticals step in! What are they? A rapidly expanding bunch of vitamins, minerals, and other natural ingredients that you take internally to look good on the outside. "Sometimes, you can accomplish a lot more with supplements than you can with creams," says Dr Susheela Arvind, a dermatologist. She also believes what you put on your face could never fully replace what is needed internally by your body to keep your skin healthy and looking great. And that's where supplements can play an important role.

Playing Proxy

"Creams cannot replace a faulty diet - so if you are not taking enough Vitamin C, for example, there is no way you can achieve Vit C levels systemically by putting creams on your skin," says Dr Arvind. Much of the buzz surrounding beauty nutrients started with US-based beauty guru Dr Nicholas Perricone's skincare regimen which combines both topical and internal nutrients. Soon corporate beauty giants such as Olay, Avon, and L'Oréal - all now have a line of 'boudoir packaged' supplements designed specifically to meet skincare needs. Herbal and ayurvedic companies such as Himalaya are getting in on the trend as well, with many offering skin nutrients based on traditional ayurveda.

What Makes It Work

Common to many of these 'beauty-vitamin' formulations is a powerful blend of antioxidants, including higher-than-average levels of Vitamins A, C, and E, as well as other antioxidants such as lycopene - the red plant pigment in tomatoes and other fruits, and pycnogenols. Lately, you'd find some of these even in topical products.

The most popular theory behind their use, say experts, involves the ability of antioxidants to beat down free radicals. These are unstable molecules that form from sun exposure, pollution, or sometimes even the foods we eat, and work to destroy collagen - the fibres which form the basic support structure for our skin. When this breakdown does occur, the skin shows signs of premature ageing eg wrinkles. Topical application of antioxidants is thought to block some of the free radical damage, and in this way preserve the integrity of our skin. But now, experts say, taking high levels internally can do even more.

"These formulations were developed to address specific skin problems - and the effects go much deeper than just antioxidant protection," says herbalist Ratna Mirpuri.

As Mirpuri explains, at least some of these nutrients are also directly involved with collagen production. So, she says, if a deficiency exists, taking daily supplements could keep collagen production going - and your skin looking younger and healthier.

Don't Pile Up The Pills

But do we have to take a pill to see results? Dr Arvind says no, "If you're eating a healthy diet with a lot of vegetables, fruits, and whole grains, plus omega 3 from foods like fish, then you should not have to take any kind of skin supplement - but then again, so many people are not really eating healthy." When this is the case, she says, a supplement can help.

However Mirpuri adds, "At a certain point you are going to excrete whatever you don't use anyway, so taking ultra high-dose products, particularly on top of a multivitamin, may net you nothing more than very expensive pee."

Those vitamins that aren't readily excreted, such as pure Vitamin A, can cause acute or chronic toxicity if taken in excess doses. So, keep an eye on your total daily intake. If you are pregnant, experts say, be extra cautious about high levels of all forms of Vitamin A. Birth defects have been seen in children born to mothers taking a form of Vitamin A (isotretinoin) for skin conditions during pregnancy.

Remember that even a top-of-the-line multivitamin might not include all the nutrients believed beneficial to skin. These include ingredients such as lycopene, Evening Primrose Oil, green tea extract, pycnogenols, alpha lipoic acid, CoQ10, and high levels of vitamins such as A, C, and E.

"Keep in mind that you may not see anything dramatic right away. And regardless of what you take internally, your skincare should still include cleansing with a gentle product, daily moisturising, and continued use of a sunscreen. ," says dermatologist Dr Jamuna Pai.

Beauty Vitamins: What's Hot

Currently, both Olay and Avon offer general wellness supplements designed to address both overall health as well as skin health. In addition, Olay's specific beauty treatments include a formulation to increase skin's firmness, (high in antioxidants particularly vitamin C); one to protect the skin from environmental stress (also heavy on antioxidants); one to renew the structure of the skin (a combo of antioxidants and essential fatty acids from Evening Primrose Oil); and a support product for younger looking skin (high doses of vitamins A and D).

Avon's beauty vitamin line includes an acne clarifying complex (high in vitamin A) and a skin nourishing formula for moisture including hyaluronic acid and chondroitan sulfate - ingredients traditionally found in many joint pain relief nutrients.

L'Oréal has released a skin nutrient in Europe based on an antioxidant complex, and is getting ready to do the same in the US in the near future.